Factors of Muslim Fashion Progress in Surakarta City: A History Review

Nowadays, Muslim fashion is worn not only to fulfil Islamic sharia, but also to present Muslim fashion without ignoring the beauty of the fashion itself. Therefore, in its progress, Muslim fashion comes with varied, trendy and fashionable items. Examining Muslim fashion progress in Surakarta City, the researcher tries to find out the background of Muslim fashion widely known of Muslim in Surakarta City and factors causing the rapid progress of Muslim fashion in Surakarta City. This study uses historical method by using procedures in accordance with the rules and the regulations of historical writing. The findings shows that Muslim fashion in Surakarta City is influenced by some factors including: (1) the occurrence of Islamization during The New Order era in Surakarta City; (2) the entry of Ikhwanul Muslimin Thought and the occurrence of Iranian Revolution; (3) the variation of Islamic colours in Surakarta city including traditionalist, puritans, modernist, and radical; (4) the high number of middle class Muslims with a consumptive lifestyle; (5) the history of Surakarta City as the birthplace of Serikat Dagang Islam (SDI) and batik textile producer in Indonesia; (6) the existence of shopping centres, fashion houses, boutiques, and Muslim fashion shops; (7) the existence of Solo Hijabs Community in introducing and promoting Muslim fashion; and (8) the role of Ikatan Perancang Busana Surakarta (IKAPERSTA), a fashion designers association in Surakarta city, representing activities related to fashion in Surakarta City

show that Muslim fashion as a symbol or religiosity for those who wear it. Specifically, the writer discusses how the progress of Muslim fashion in Surakarta city. Moreover, in this study the writer emphasizes the historical aspect of it. An article published in SUHUF Journal 5 written by Chusniatun is entitled "Perhatian Kaum Muslim Terhadap Busana Muslim". She concludes that the emergence of special attention by Muslim of Muslim fashion in Surakarta starts at 1980s when many young Muslim women learned Islam. In addition, they also want to apply it to everyday life as fashion distinguish themselves from other groups or people. The article is quite similar to this study as both studies examine Surakarta city and Muslim fashion. However, there are few things that make those researches different. In this research, the writer specifically discusses about Muslim fashion and factors causing the rapid progress of Muslim fashion in Surakarta City. In addition, the writer also uses historical research method.

METHODOLOGY
This study uses historical research methods which met the research rules. The method has a systematic set of rules and principles for collecting sources and evaluating the sources critically. This method is as a form of implementation and technical material, criticism and interpretation of the history as well as in the report. There are some stages in this research including heuristics (collecting sources) and verification (criticizing sources internally and externally) -in this stage, the researcher re-assures the sources obtained such as newspapers or magazines by checking the physical form of the sources (paper and ink) and selecting the sources according to the theme and its originality in accordance with the conditions, and compares the interview result and the written sources (newspaper) for resulting an equivalence statements -interpretation (by doing analysis (decomposition) and synthesis (unification)), and historiography (writing history). 6 Primary sources used as references in this study include document sources in the form of articles or photos contained in local newspapers or magazines in Surakarta city representing the progress of Muslim fashion in Surakarta city. Some local newspaper in Surakarta city also become sources, namely Radar Solo, Solo Pos, Suara Bengawan, ADIL newspaper. The researcher also conducted interviews who provide relevant information Islamization in Surakarta city cannot be separated from the socical-political conditions of Surakarta people at that time. There was one major event called G30S/PKI which result Islamization in Surakarta. This incident led to chaos resulting upheaval among communities. Basically, Surakarta city was one of strong base of PKI at the end of Soekarno period. In order to restore the condition, after G30S/PKI incident, restoration was carried out through some political actions. Religion was also used as an instrument to restore security. It was carried out by military through indoctrination activities against political prisoners from PKI or those who were doctrine as PKI. 7 The impact of G30S/PKI incident in Surakarta city was seen through the number of followers of Aliran Kebatinan who decide to convert to religions recognized by government against accusations that they do not have religions or even communis. Aliran Kebatinan or other non-orthodox belief was listed in coloumn "other". In population censuses in 1974 and 1975, 19.517 people converted to "other" category which indicate that they converted to Christianity and Islam. It was recorded that the number of Muslim increased in 1974 with 334.889 people and in 1975 with 340.496 people. 8 The phenomenon occurred at the beginning of New Order era showed that the majority of Javanese people become Muslim and act within the framework of Islamic thought. In those group, Islamiation offers a template for determining a new harmony parameter of a village. Islamization is seen attractive for offering much-needed reassurance and comforting them after G30S/PKI incident. A deeper process of Islamization was encouraged by various religious organization for the sake of a "piety" agenda and supported by the government in which there were some people voluntarily convert the religions for realizing a new harmony village. 9 The Islamization process was

The Spread of Ikhwanul Muslimin Thoughts and the Iranian Revolution
During the New Order era, the seeds of campus propaganda that were ideological in nature began to emerge. The adopted ideas are from Transnational organization such as The Decree SK 100/D/Kep/C/1991 discusses the legalization of Muslim students with their personal beliefs to wear typical school uniforms or hijab at school. The difference is also on the hijab. While Muslim students wore destar or blangkon as the old typical hijab, they wear a white veil as the newest hijab. For skirts and blouses, the students wore a suit-form blouse, long-sleeves shirt (not tucked into the skirt), and knee-lengths skirt.
Meanwhile, based on the new decree, the student wear a regular-shape blouse, wristlength with a flap pocket on the left shirt (tucked into a skirt), and ankles-lengths skirt.
The school principal is in charge for their school. 17 The Progress of Muslim Fashion in Surakarta City After the explanation above, it can be seen that there are factors causing Muslim fashion widely known by Muslim women in Surakarta city. In this discussion, we discuss the progress of Muslim fashion in Surakarta city who was used to wear a simple and out-to-date fashion identical with kebaya with a draped-over-head veil. Today, Muslim fashion is varied in creations, shapes, models, and materials. Muslim women in Surakarta now tends to choose an up to date, fashionable and trendy fashion.  The phenomenon of Muslim fashion progress in Surakarta city cannot be separated from the influence of today's lifestyle related to technology which in turn gives rise to the Muslim community or sermon. The social community has a significant role in shaping Muslim woman's identity. Since a community or group greatly influences its members in behaving, the social community acts a reference group. In Surakarta city, there is one Muslim community that gives a big impact, namely Solo Hijabers community. This community is considered as a community that become a forum and